Friday, 30 September 2016

Trip to Reading Gaol

Today starts warm and sunny.  My mate at the station is in a good mood. He lets me and Phyllis jump the queue and I end up on an earlier train than planned.  I get my come upance when I am an unceremoniously booted out of first class.  Well, how was I to know it wasn't decommisioned?  My good old Mum always thought that as a doctor I should be allowed in first class as a matter of course.  Diffierent generation!!  

In Reading I have time for a coffee in Carluccio's which I always love when it's quiet.  My friend texts to say he can't make it due to grandfather duties.  Not to worry. 

So I am off to the exciting art project Inside the now closed Reading Prison. It is the work of Artangel
And you can read about it and download the PDF guide here


For me this is going to be a trip down memory lane. I visited the prison in 2010 when I was workng with drug users in Reading.  It was a scary unwelcomimg place and my return deepens mydiscomfort about the system 





HM Prison Reading is now closed but has re opened for the first time to the public as artists, writers, and performers respond to its most notorious inmate:  Oscar Wilde.  His time in jail was devastating, the work produced as a result is enduring. Incarcerated in solitary confinement he wrote De Profundis, an extended letter to his lover Lord Alfred Douglas; on release he produced his last work, The Ballad of Reading Gaol.

At this site, the penal regime Wilde suffered is explored through archives, leading through to the installation of new works by artists such as Nan Goldin, Marlene Dumas, and Steve McQueen in the previously inaccessible cells and corridors.

In some cells, are letters on the theme of state-enforced separation from around the world by writers including Binyavanga Wainaina, Ai Weiwei, and Anne Carson. 

This exhibition brings together that which Wilde's final works so eloquently delineated: the pain of separation, the excruciatingly slow passage of time, betrayal, redemption, and love.





HM Prison Reading, formerly known as Reading Gaol, was closed at the end of 2013. It is a Grade II-listed building.

Reading Gaol in 1844

It was built in 1844 as the Berkshire County Gaol in the heart of Reading on the site of the former county prison, alongside the site of Reading Abbey and beside the River Kennet. 

Designed by George Gilbert Scot it was based on London's New Model Prison at Pentonville with a cruciform shape, and is a good example of early Victorian prison architecture. The Pentonville design of 1842 was based on the design of Eastern State Penotentiary of 1829 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 

It was designed to carry out what was the very latest penal technique of the time, known as the separate System. This kept the inmates in solitary confinement for 22 hours per day with only short breaks for exercise and chapel. Previously prisoners had been in dormitories but it was felt these encouraged the spread of diseases and poisoned minds. As a county gaol, its forecourt served as the site for public executions, the first one in 1845 before a crowd of 10,000; after1868 executions took place in private inside, the last one in 1913.

The staff who meet and greet today are amazing and friendly.  They explain that the cell where we can leave our coats and bags is the actual one where those waiting to be hanged would be held. The guards would change 20 minutes before the execution took place to prevent them bonding with and thus protecting the inmate. 

In the nineteenth century you could be hung for stealing handerchiefs and apples.  Surprisingly you can still be hung for treason, defacing royal dockyards and piracy with violence.  Thanks to the European Court of Human Rights we are, in reality, protected from these punishments but after Brexit who knows says our wonderful host.  

I get into a nice chat with him about hangings of women at Oxford and he reminded me of Amelia Dyer, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amelia_Dyer, a Victorian baby murderer and 'farmer" who I would quote when I was a consultant in the 90s giving talks about reproductive health issues.  

We really have progressed in many ways as a society.  It's easy to lose track of that. 


Reading Prison was used to hold Irish prisoners involved in the 1916 Easter Rising, for internment in both World Wars, as a Borstal and for a variety of other purposes. Most of those interned during the First World War were of German origin but there were also Latin Americans, Belgians, and Hungarians. In 1969 the wing where the Irish had been held was demolished.

In 1973 Reading was re-designated as a local prison and around that time its old castle wall was removed. In 1992 it became a Remand Centre and Young Offenders Institution, holding prisoners between the ages of 18 and 21 years.  Accommodation at the prison consisted of a mixture of single and double occupancy cells contained on three wings. There was also a further residential unit (Kennet wing) of single occupancy cells for low security prisonersOn 4 September 2013, it was announced that HM Prison Reading would close by the end of that year, and the prison formally closed in November.

There have been calls for the prison building to be preserved as a tourist attraction, and Reading Council have confirmed that they intend to retain the complex.  In June 2014 it was proposed that the site could be converted into a theatre venue.  However, in November 2015 it was announced by Chancellor George Osborne and Justice Secretary Michael Gove that the site was to be sold to housing developers.

In May 2016 it was announced that the former prison will be made available as an arts venue for the Reading 2016 Year of Culture programme. 

So we have to wait and see what comes next.  Oxford Prison is now a posh hotel, I think the Osborne plans may go ahead in a similar mode.  This would be a travesty in my view.  This building should be enjoyed by all.  

Here is the "en suite" of a two to three man cell.  A total disgrace in 2013.  Take away liberty yes, when needed to protect society, but not dignity.  This helps no one.  And rehabilitates no one. 





So now to Oscar Wilde, depicted here by Marlene Dumas.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marlene_Dumas



Oscar Fingal O'Flahertie Wills Wilde (1854 – 1900) was an Anglo-Irish aristrocrat and writer. After writing in different forms throughout the 1880s, he became one of London's most popular playwrights in the early 1890s. He is remembered for his novel The Picture of Dorian Gray, his plays, as well as the circumstances of his imprisonment and early death.

Wilde's parents were successful Dublin intellectuals. Their son became fluent in French and German early in life. At university, Wilde proved himself to be an outstanding classicist, first at Dublin, then at Oxford. He became known for his involvement in the rising philosophy of aestheticism, led by two of his tutors, Walter Day and John Ruskin. After university, Wilde moved to London into fashionable cultural and social circles.

As a spokesman for aestheticism, he tried his hand at various literary activities: he published a book of poems, lectured in the United States and Canada on the new "English Renaissance in Art", and then returned to London where he worked prolifically as a journalist. Known for his biting wit, flamboyant dress and glittering conversation, Wilde became one of the best-known personalities of his day.

At the turn of the 1890s, he refined his ideas about the supremacy of art in a series of dialogues and essays, and incorporated themes of decadence, duplicity, and beauty into his only novel, The Picture of Dorian Gray (1890). The opportunity to construct aesthetic details precisely, and combine them with larger social themes, drew Wilde to write drama. He wrote Salome (1891) in French in Paris but it was refused a licence for England due to the absolute prohibition of Biblical subjects on the English stage. Unperturbed, Wilde produced four society comedies in the early 1890s, which made him one of the most successful playwrights of late Victorian London.

At the height of his fame and success, while his masterpiece, The Importance of Being Earnest (1895), was still on stage in London, Wilde had the Marquess of Queensberry prosecuted for libel. The Marquess was the father of Wilde's lover, Lord Alfred Douglas. The charge carried a penalty of up to two years in prison. The trial unearthed evidence that caused Wilde to drop his charges and led to his own arrest and trial for gross indecency with men. After two more trials he was convicted and imprisoned for two years.  There is, I understand, uncertainty as to what extent Wilde's downfall was brought on by the fact he had concensual sex with adult men (a crime in those times; incredible to me today) or the fact that he was a paedophile.  It seems certain he had sex with teenage working class boys.  Their ability to consent on an equal footing seem dubious.  This throws a shadow on the writer's genius. But as Oscar himself said, there is no such thing as moral art, it is just either good or bad.

In 1897, in Reading Gaol, Wilde wrote De Profundis, which was published in 1905, a long letter which discusses his spiritual journey through his trials, forming a dark counterpoint to his earlier philosophy of pleasure. Upon his release he left immediately for France, never to return to Ireland or Britain.  His wife divorced him and he never saw his two children again.  In gaol he wrote his last work, The Ballad of Reading Gaol, (1898), a long poem commemorating the harsh rhythms of prison life.  Prison broke him.  He died destitute in Paris at the age of 46.   Read more about Oscar Wilde and his life, his trial and his death here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Wilde.  

I note with interest that Oscar Wilde requested St Augstine's Confessions when in gaol, this work was a key influence on Stanley Spencer who was a child during the era.  See my blog post.   http://carrying-on-as-best-i-can.blogspot.com/2016/08/oxford-unitarians-visit-sandham.html

I also note a copy of the orginal edition of De Profundis


 Some other interesting exhibits 

This is the prison chapel.  

Read about the plinth here

You can listen to recodings of some of the live readings on head phones. 

Nan Golding made a touching video of the 'happiest old gay in the village'.  A 91 year old man who was pardoned having been convicted of the same offence as Oscar Wilde and Alan Turing 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Turing

 

Steve McQueen's work also explores confinement and colonialism.  He visited Reading Prison and was inspired to produce Weight the metal bed with gold plated mosquito netting shown below. 


What a great show, particularly so as I bumped into another friend there and got a bit hug which amused the others in the cell

Then it was a quick sarnie in the Oracle and a whizz round the shops for my annual clothes purchase. Yuck. I hate shopping. The assistants in John Lewis are totally fun and lovely I must say! 

Home via the sardine can and Phyllis! 


 






























  








Thursday, 29 September 2016

Ashdown House


What a lovely day today was.  

I arranged to meet my friend at the Rising Sun in Stockcross for lunch.  On arrival it was shut.  The web site said it would be open.  Not to worry.  It was a nice mild day so I sat on a picnic table at the front and waited.  My friend was coming from Slough and got the post code from the website, put it in her sat nav and set off.  The pub is owned by WestBerks Brewery so she ended up there by mistake.  Easily done.  She phoned to say it's lovely here but I think I am in the wrong place!  

I had a nice walk round and twenty minutes later S turned up and we put plan B into operation.  
Wonderful falafels and service were had at the Five Bells at Wickham.  A favourite haunt of the West Berks CAMRA crowd. 


The next part of the plan was Ashdown House, further up the B4000, past Lambourne and into Oxfordshire.   



Find out more about it here. 

https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ashdown-house

We discovered little as it was closed.  I have I horrible feeling I misread the website.  Quite funny to have all these misunderstandings in one day. 

Not to worry.  An Indian Summer was going on and S was bowled over by the countryside; Ridgeway area.  We had a walk instead and got totally lost in the woods.  We eventually found the B4000 and headed up it for a mile back to the car. 

We now have a plan to visit the property again in the spring. 

Looking forward!  

Tuesday, 27 September 2016

Donnington Castle



Today I am lucky.  The archaeology team, Sarah and Alex, from West Berkshire Council are giving the volunteers who work at the museum the chance to have a tour, both inside (not as far as the roof for health and safety reasons) and out of the wonderful iconic asset that is the ruined Donnington Castle.  Here is our group. 


Donnington Castle is a Grade 1 listed building, a scheduled monument and a registered park and garden.  Although it is the site of the the second battle of Newbury, it is not a registered battlefield.  English Heritage looks after the site which is owned by the nation, or the Queen, or all of us.  We aren't quite sure but we do feel a sense of awe when we consider all the events that took place on this spot.  

The first record we have of the castle comes from the fourteenth century. In 1386, Sir Richard Abbebury was given licence to crenalate by King Richard II, which means permission to make a manor into a castle.  There is mention of a rebuild, but what was on the site before is unknown and there will be no further excavation due to the Grade 1 listing status.  A shame in some ways, as there is a rich history below our feet.  Limited excavations did take place in the 1920s.  A medieval tile was found and a cobbled surface and well.  

Sir Richard wished to increase his defensive capabilty and the hill top positon is thus ideal.  In fact though, the castle is as much a status symbol, a display of wealth and pomp. In many ways it is not a serious defensive building; it has large windows and no dundgeons.  But imposimg it is.  I live on the other side of town but from several vantage points I can see the impressive and imposing single tower.  

The castle was built using Berkshire flint and also used some chalk.  The scattered brick which can be seen in my photos was added much later as repair work after the disastrous civil war of the seventeenth century.  


There was a draw bridge and a ditch round this Gatehouse, which is the only remaining tower.  



This is the quadrilateral large green behind the Gatehouse.  Donnington Castle was originally built in a roughly rectangular form, with the green above as the interior.  It was enclosed by a curtain wall, with a round tower at each of the four corners. Roughly halfway along the two walls running from west to east were two square towers. The green enclosed by the curtain walls would probably have contained a hall, kitchens, and accommodation for guests.  

 

Above is a drain from the drop toilet. 

In the middle of the picture below is the head of a medieval lady.  Her purpose is purely decorative.  Various gargoyles are also scattered around. 

 

This pretty window could have been part of the chapel though there is one on the other side too. 


At last we are allowed entry by the key holder.  

The beautiful original fourteenth century vaulted ceiling of the gate house has a few cobwebs (wish I had my long feather duster) but is otherwise in great condition.  It is possible that William de Winford was the architect but nothing is certain.  



Here we all are in the ground floor of the tower. 


We climb the sprial staircase to the next floor.  It is in good condition but dusty.  



It is felt that this was a dove cote



Several important historical figures are associated with the Castle.  These include Elizabeth I and the son of Geoffrey Chaucer, Thomas who bought the castle in 1398, as a residence for his daughter Alice who later became Duchess of Suffolk. 

This family later fell out with the Tudor monarchs, and the castle became a royal property.  Elizabeth 1 and Henry VIII visited several times.  In 1600, Elizabeth I gave the castle and surrounding manor to Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham.   

The most important and significant history is the fateful one the English Civil War.  By the time the war broke out in 1643, the castle was owned by the Parliamentarian John Packer but after the First Battle of Newbury it was taken for the King, Charles I and held by Sir John Boys tenaciously. They quickly enhanced the castle's defences by adding earthworks in a star shape to provide gun emplacements.  Parliamentarians laid siege to the castle in October 1644 and the garrison held out for 18 months. With permission from the king, Boys surrendered the castle in April 1646 and was allowed to leave with all his men.   It was a long and bitter siege with great loss of life.  Sir John thought nothing of burning the village down to put off any assailants.  He had gained a great deal of the respect from the other side and thus walked free. 

In 1646 Parliament voted to demolish what was left of the castle; only the gatehouse was left standing though the 17th century earthworks can still be seen.  What a crime.  

The castle stayed in the Packer family until the mid 18th century, when Robert Packer married Mary Winchcombe, and the property passed into her family until 1881. However after the war it was never lived in again.  It became a popular tourist spot for the Victoroans, who were fond of romantic ruins.  There are records of a drinking room during the era. 



We have had a brilliant morning.   I am now imagining all the ways that this site could be improved.  It could take a leaf out of the book of Kirklees Abbey in Leeds which has a play area and cafe.  People would pay a few pounds to enter the Gatehouse.  Wake up English Heritage. 



Saturday, 24 September 2016

Hampstead Norreys West Berkshire

Today I was volunteered to take T of N up to Yattendon to the OktoberWest Beer Festival.  I decided while in the area to spend some time at Hampstead Norreys.  Both of these villages are North of Newbury in West Berkshire.  There is evidence of human habitation in the area back to the Bronze and Roman times.  Hampstead Norreys gets a mention in the Doomsday Book. 


I believe St Mary's Church dates back to Norman times. 



Today the Vicar is getting married.  I see her leaving the church with her groom. She looks lovely. 
take a walk past the church and discover the Motte.  This is mentioned in David Nash Ford's wonderful history blog 


Theodoric the Goldsmith was a German immigrant and the finest gold and silver craftsman in the country in late Saxon times.  There has always been migration of people.   William the Conqueror understood it's benefits and wanted to keep Theodoric sweet.  He gave him a number of manors in order to keep him in the country and working for the Crown. Five of these were in Berkshire where there was good woodland for smelting metal, and they appear to have been centred on Hampstead Norreys. Behind the church, in Westbrook Copse, can be seen the motte of a small castle  which Theodoric may have built to protect his precious stores of metal and jewels.

Today I walk by the site along with local youngsters, families and dogs. 


The community shop and cafe is wonderful.  I shop for local produce and have tea and carrot cake!  
There is an old barn next door. 




Friday, 16 September 2016

Trip to Brighton

I'm here for the Libdem Conference which I might write about in my blog http://greenhamcandidate.blogspot.co.uk/
For now I am focusing on R&R, I am tired after yesterday's brilliant time in London on the last day of the heat wave. The downpour I managed to avoid has found it's way back to the station, which looks more like the canal wharf this morning....


And the photo above is to be bagged for ITV News! 

Everything goes fine after I have rowed to Reading!   First stop in the Lanes! 


In the Bluebird Tea Co I buy mint tea and reusable ecoffee cups.  Great Christmas presents!  Libdems want a tax on disposable cups. A brilliant plan. This gets me in the mood. 
Next I check in and chill out. 

I take a walk.  Delighted to come across the Buddhist Centre. Wondering if I can squeeze in some yoga and meditation. 


Down to the sea front and I am reminded how I feel a special fondness for Sussex.  It's my daughter's heritage in a way. 







Dinner is at The Pump House in Market St.  
I like Nicholson's, they are a sort of upmarket Wetherspoons with friendly staff members and good ales.  And hopefully they are not Brexit but I don't know that.  



The Hop Twister is great.  I follow it up with a pint of Nicholson's Pale Ale and a veggie burger.  All OK. Early night. 

Thursday, 15 September 2016

A September Heatwave in The City and Sloane Square, with Bedlam thrown in

A late start today for Phyllis the Bike and I.  It's the 10.56 to Paddington and I have no complaints about this journey.  Hot, hot in London but I enjoy my walk from Bank to Millenium Bridge.  
Every street in the City has a name that shouts out 'History'. 
Here is the very Pudding Lane where the Great Fire started 350 years ago to the month in the bakery of Thomas Farriner.  We know not how but fires were very frequent in those times. 


Below is the monument to the Fire, named Monument, how imaginative! 


Why have I never been here before?   Better late than never!  I resolved to come after seeing the current exhibition Fire! Fire! at the Museum of London.  See my blog post, 12 August



'How long does it take to climb?'  'Three to four minutes' says the Guide.  I part with my £3 (old lady rates) and I am off.  Nice steps.  Cool tower.  Nice climb.  Note the contrast between modernity and early modernity in my arty photo!  Ha ha! 



I have a certificate to prove it!  Sorry no name yet!  


And the views are worth the effort.  


Here you see Tower Bridge from the Monument (above) and from the ground (below) on the Riverside Walk.  


I walk past the very interesting area of Queenhithe and it's mosaic.  Old Anglo Saxon dock.
Office workers are out for lunch. 


I walk up from our wonderful river via St Pauls' Cathedral.   Again, why have I never been so close to this national treasure?   I love the surrounding area too. I make a note to visit the inside of the cathedral soon. It was rebuilt after the Fire by Christopher Wren. 
   


After cooling off in Pret I take the Barbican High Walk from the underground.  


On the way I pass the tower of St Alban's which is all that was left standing of this church after the blitz.  



So much history of destruction in one small area.  Now I am on the cool high walk 





What a great place to read a book. (Spot the reader below) This area would be a wonderful place to live.  A quiet oasis and out of our price range. And most pther peoples'. A disgrace. 


On the way to Moorgate Station, I encounter two of T of N's favourite things, a bike stand and a Leon. 


I take the H&C line from Moorgate to Euston Square.  
I love visiting The Wellcome Collection and want to see the latest exhibition, Beyond Bedlam.  Of course, during my working lifetime I witnessed the loss of the old asylums and the rise and fall of care in the community.  I would also like to visit the Beaufort Hospital in Bristol where Stanley Spencer worked as a medical orderly and which is now part of Bristol University.  



The exhibition catalogues the managememt of emotional distress from the Middle Ages. There is a brilliant film about the recent history of The Bethlem Hospital. 
The Art Therapy of the Australian, Cunning Dax 
and the unbelievable effect of Henry Cotton, make me think about the power of the medical profession. Perhaps we still make these sort of errors. But now we have more insight and involve patients in the desicion making process.  Perhaps we are at this moment acting in good faith and doing all sorts of things that will seem incredible in a century. Ritalin? 


I love Morphineomane by Eugene Grasset 1897. This illustrates to me that addiction has been with us a long time and is not going to go away. Not in a hurry. 


Bedlam: I am left agreeing with the doctor (male of course),  from the 50s film who said 'we have no idea of the causes of or how to deal with mental distress'.  That is why there are so many options available. And very few of them accessible to all.  This is the travesty of the NHS.