Today I make an early start as Phyllis, the bike, and I set off in the cold sunshine to the station. Soon I am at The Wellcome Collection, Euston Road, http://wellcomecollection.org/ (one of my regular haunts) to see 'Tibet's Secret Temple'. This free exhibition explores Tibetan Buddhist tantric practice and it's connections to physical and mental wellbeing. After refreshing myself with a capuccino in the very good cafe, I am delighted that the exhibition starts with a very meditative video, which sums up Tibet so well. In retrospect, this is my favourite part. The Tibetan landscspe, Potala Palace, and the capital city, Lhasa are clearly depicted. I am fascinated to see tarmac, buses and cars. There were none of these when I was there thirty years ago. And no face masks either. Even nicer to see prayer flags and wheels as well and people prostrating themselves en route to holy sites.
This link takes you to a shorter video on the website.
The exhibition was inspired by a series of 17th century murals from the meditation chamber for Tibet’s Dalai Lamas in Lhasa’s Lukhang Temple, behind the huge Potala Palace. Three of the murals from the temple have been recreated, by photographer Thomas Laird, as life-sized digital artworks that form the centrepiece of the exhibition.
There are over 120 other objects including scroll paintings, statues, manuscripts, archival and contemporary film, together with a wide range of ethnographic and ritual artefacts.
The Potala Palace, constructed in the 17th century is shown below. It was the chief residence of the Dalai Lama (the Tibetan spiritual and secular leader) until the current 14th Dalai Lama was forced to flee to India during the 1959 Chinese Invasion. The fact that the exhibition makes no reference to this, or the on going religious oppression is, in my view, a grave omission.
The Lukhang, seen above in front of The Potala is the much smaller three storey building on the island in the lake. It was felt that the Potala's construction work upset the Lu, so the temple was built to appease them. The Lu were mystical god like beings from early animist religions (I think). It is really interesting that the three storeys in mandala style represent the harmony of the psyche and cosmos as well as three different cultural styles. (Chinese, Monglian and Tibetan). The most important work took place on the top level: this is where the murals are to be found, which guide the tantric meditations of the Dalai Lama. I am reminded of Maslows Heirarchy of needs, which is also pyramidal with transcendence at its peak.
Before reading further I would recommend this five minute explanation of what Buddhism is about.
Tantric Buddhism or Vajrayana is a form of Buddhism originating in early medieval India: rather than 'emptying the mind' via meditation, complex techniques are used to achieve enlightenment. These involve yoga, dance and colourful detailed meditations. These rituals are intended to channel our emotional energies in a positive way, facing rage and terror as well as rapture.
Some of the yogic practices are of interest to me as I have practiced yoga for over forty years, and I can confirm that it helps both mind and body.
Here is a dakini, similar to one in the exhibition. This represents a highly enlightened woman who has reached this state via the tantric route. I can but hope!
Next I meet up with my own Art Historian for a quick lunch then head to the British Museum to catch up with the Celts. I am pleased to report that Celts:Art and Identity is much more understandable than Tibet's Secret Temple. I learn that the word Celt comes from Ancient Greece and basically meant anyone from South of Scandinavia and North of the Mediterranean. Throughout the whole of this region in Roman and early Medieval times, there were cultural similarites (and subtle differences) between the people's of these areas. These were apparent in the art works on display. These peoples never calles themselves Celts.
I was pleased to see St Chad's Gospel from Lichfield Cathedral, which I visited frequently when I lived in the town.
And here is an image of one of the many Torcs (choker like necklaces) on display. There were many different styles depending on the area.
These styles were rebranded as 'Celtic' by scholars in the Victorian era who recognised linguistic as well as artistic similarites in the cultures of Scotland, Ireland, Wales, Cornwall, Isle of Man, Brittany and Galicia, right back to the Iron Age. This interest fuelled the Celtic Revival, with Rennie Mackintosh being it's most famous protagonist. Here is an example of his work (not from the exhibition).
I have a real thrill when I see my favourite painting from the Kelvingrove Gallery in Glasgow on loan. I just love the wonderful 'The Druids: Bringing in the Mistletoe' by George Henry, Edward Atkinson Hornel.
I am interested to learn that multicultural Britain is not a new concept. Multicultaralism was alive and kicking in first millennium AD; Roman Britian was different from Roman Italy, that is to say that Roman and indiginous cultures merged. And as I saw earlier, Chinese, Monglian and Tibetan influences all helped shaped medieval Tibet.
Mirrors are also a recurring theme today. In the Tantric Exhibition I learned about the Buddhist mirror which is intended to liberate the mind. It signifies that life is an illusion, for the mirror is not true reality — it is rather a reflection of reality. We see an image, but it is not real. All that is real is the The Buddha Mind, the rest is an illusion. Tricky stuff.
At the British Museum I learn that most people in Celtic times only ever saw their face reflected in still water. Highly polished metallic mirrors were only for the rich.
What an amazing day. I walk back towards Paddington Station after tea and cake. I get lost in Fitzrovia, finally diving into the underground at Oxford Circus then experiencing, but transcending, various degrees of seat rage on the packed GWR train.
As we cycle home, horrible cold rain descends on Phyllis and me. I am soon revived with a nice hot bath and bed.
Much to reflect on.
No comments:
Post a Comment