The rest of my life: Visiting the Isle of Ulva

Today we set off for Ulva. As you can see from the map below, it is a circuitous route on a single track road from the croft, which is situated near the top red pin.

When we have passed the Burgh, we stop for coffee with a flask, just like our parents did in the old days. We find ourselves looking at Inch Kenneth, one of the islands in the photo below. The island is named after St Kenneth, a follower of Saint Columba, who is said to have founded a monastery on the island.

The island was visited in 1773 by Samuel Johnson and James Boswell.
In the 1930s the island was owned by Sir Harold Boulton, 2nd Baronet, the writer of the words to the Skye Boat Song. He enlarged an earlier house to make the existing large mansion. Its most famous owners were the eccentric Mitford family. Nazi sympathiser Unity Mitford (8 August 1914 – 28 May 1948) spent her final years on the island.
She formed part of Hitler's inner circle of friends.Following the declaration of the war, Mitford attempted suicide in Munich, (by shooting herself in head) but failed. She was officially allowed safe passage back to England in her invalid condition, but never recovered, dying of meningitis.
Following the death of the Mittford's mother, Lady Redesdale in 1963, the island was inherited by the surviving sisters, except Jessica. The latter was a communist living in the US and estranged from the family. However Nancy gave her share to Jessica, who bought the shares of the other surviving siblings. Jessica teasingly suggested that it might become a Soviet submarine base.
The island was sold by Jessica in the late 1960s to Dr Andrew Barlow (1916-2006) and his artist wife Yvonne Barlow; it remains with their daughter Claire Barlow, Senior Lecturer at Cambridge University.

Finally, we approach Ulva. Below is a fishing boat moored by the ferry, Ulva is on the horizon, just a stone's throw away.

Ulva is privately owned by the Howard family and was formerly the home of 600 people who made their living from the collection and exportation of kelp. Today there are eleven residents who make thier living from sheep and cattle farming, fish farming, oyster farming and tourism.

There are no tarmac roads on Ulva, so no cars, just the four wheel cross country bikes used by all inhabitants, young and old. The proprietors are dedicated to creating a balance between the needs of the community and the preservation of one of Scotland’s most unique, beautiful and accessible islands.

Ulva’s woodlands, shores and open moors make it an ideal place for bird watching. Bird activity is intense throughout the year. There are exciting seasonal events such as the coming of the terns to the small islands south of Ulva to breed, the puffins in the waters west and north of Ulva in early summer, the occasional cry of the Corncrake.

The animals and plants you see on a visit to Ulva will depend upon three things: the time of year, your powers of observation and pure luck. Red deer, rabbits and mountain hares, the occasional sea otter, stoat or hedgehog might be spotted at any season.

Ulva is open from Easter to October; the ferry which takes foot passengers and bicycles runs Monday to Friday 9 – 5. The island is closed on Saturdays but opens on Sundays from June to the end of August. The crossing only takes a couple of minutes and is on demand; summon the ferry by uncovering the red panel on the pier but don’t forget to cover it again as the boat approaches.

D is hosting a bird and nature watching tour to the island today and we all meet up at the tea-room. This provides delicious home cooked food, based on locally available ingredients.We enjoy crab pate.

This is the view to Mull from the tea room.

Ulva is home to Sheila’s Cottage, a restored thatched croft house once the home of Sheila MacFadyen. Here we learn about the famous visitors to Ulva, Boswell and Dr Johnson, Lachlan Macquarie and Sir Walter Scott. Beatrix Potter was also a regular visitor to the island and found inspiration for many of her books here. The grandparents of the famous explorer and missionary David Livingstone once lived on Ulva. Look at Sheila's log burning on the fire and also acting as a washing line! I think she stayed here till the mid 20th century, when she moved to Mull in her old age.

Ulva had it’s own Parliamentary church which was one of five churches on Mull and Iona to be designed by Thomas Telford and was completed, along with the manse, in 1828. In the mid 1950s Lady Congleton who owned the island purchased the church and the larger part of it was converted into a community hall. Only the north west portion was retained for ecclesiastical use. The church is now privately owed and a couple of services are conducted every year at Easter and Harvest time. It has a sad feel to it, and clearly needs a face lift.